Khadi and the Tiranga: How India's National Flags Are Made
The link between the flag and khadi, the standards that govern official flags, and the 2021 amendment that allowed machine-made and polyester flags.
A cloth with a story
Khadi, hand-spun and hand-woven cloth, was at the heart of Mahatma Gandhi's call for self-reliance during the freedom movement. The charkha on the 1921 and 1931 flags was a reminder of this. Even after the charkha was replaced by the Ashoka Chakra in 1947, the national flag remained closely linked to khadi, and for decades the Flag Code required flags to be made of hand-spun and hand-woven khadi.
Standards for official flags
Official national flags are made according to specifications issued by the Bureau of Indian Standards. These specifications cover the dimensions, the shades of saffron, white, green and navy blue, the type and strength of cloth, the thread count and the way the chakra is printed or embroidered. The Flag Code lists standard sizes, ranging from very large flags for major buildings to small flags for tables and cars, all following the 3:2 ratio.
Where flags are made
One of the best-known producers of standard national flags is the Karnataka Khadi Gramodyoga Samyukta Sangha at Bengeri in Hubballi, Karnataka, which has long been associated with making flags to official standards. The work involves spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing, cutting and stitching, much of it carried out by skilled workers, many of them women. Each flag is checked for colour, size and the position of the chakra before it is approved.
The 2021 change
In December 2021, the Flag Code was amended to allow the flag to be made of hand-spun and hand-woven or machine-made cotton, polyester, wool or silk khadi bunting. This made flags more widely available and affordable, which helped large public campaigns such as Har Ghar Tiranga in 2022. Hand-made khadi flags continue to be made and are valued by many for their heritage and craftsmanship.
Buying a good flag
When buying a flag, look for correct proportions, a clearly printed or embroidered navy blue chakra with 24 spokes visible on both sides, even colours and neat stitching. Avoid plastic flags. Buying khadi flags from authorised khadi outlets supports artisans and connects your celebration to the history of the freedom movement.
This article is intended for general educational purposes. For official or legal purposes, please refer to the current Flag Code of India and notifications published by the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India. Spotted an error? Write to info@tirangaourpride.online.